Pattern Making: Drafting 1930s Lingerie, Blouses, Skirts and ...

Pattern Making: Drafting 1930s Lingerie, Blouses, Skirts and ...
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  • Item #: 1936049007

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Pattern Making -- Drafting 1930s Lingerie, Blouses, Skirts and Sp­ortswear Fashions
by Gertrude Mason

{softcover, 160 pages, 5.5x8.5, 2009, ISBN: 1936049007}

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Originally published in 1937, this rare book was written from two aspects of pattern making -- creating your own drawn to measure patterns and adjusting commercial patterns to fit the differences in your body versus "stock size" patterns.

Drawn to measure patterns use your own body measurements and allow for individual irregularities to be accounted for when making garments. To begin, the author has you measure your body. You then learn the fundamental principles of pattern making by making simple garments with simple modifications -- perfect for beginning pattern makers and sewers. You'll start out with simple patterns including:

  • scarf
  • cravat
  • dressing wraps
  • nightgown with loose sleeve bands
  • sunbathing top
  • simple brassiere
  • french knickers
  • circular collar and matching circular cuffs
  • flared jabot

The remaining chapters teach you how to create specific types of foundation patterns -- magyar, bodice, dressing gown, one piece, knicker, petticoat and skirt -- with which all other garments throughout the book are created. Using these foundation patterns as a base, you can create many different garments from one foundation pattern, combine different foundation patterns to make even more garments and use your newly learned drafting skills to create your own designs. The following garments are only a few examples of pattern instructions included:

  • chemise slip or vest
  • jumper camisole
  • sun frock
  • camiknickers
  • brassiere  
  • nightgowns
  • short sac coat
  • blouses
  • magyar dress
  • sleeves
  • collars
  • kimono
  • dressing jacket
  • pyjamas
  • bolero
  • pyjama trousers
  • skirt knickers
  • trouser skirt
  • straight skirts
  • six gored skirt
  • skirt petticoat
  • tunic dress

For adjusting commercial patterns, the author explains in detail and with diagrams how to lengthen and shorten patterns by simply adding/removing paper, making a dart-like pleat to adjust shoulder lines, and how to adjust the neck of a pattern. Testing paper patterns (by trying them on), preparing material for cutting, folding material for cutting, and planning out the pattern are also covered in detail.

This unique pattern making book contains instructions for making garments not often seen in other 1930s sewing books -- including a trouser skirt, trouser pajamas, brassieres and a smock overall that can be used as a maternity frock. Many trends of the 1930s subtly expose themselves throughout this book -- for example, suntanning became fashionable in the 1930s, and this book tackles that trend with instructions for making sunbathing tops, a sundress, and backless nightgowns that double as evening dresses to show off bronzed skin. All of the fashion trends unique to 1930s fashion can be found in this book.

The author, Gertrude Mason, was an instructor of dressmaking, coat making and tailoring and she laid this book out as a perfect teaching guide for her method with each chapter showing further detail on the art of pattern making while still keeping the concepts simple and easy to understand. Much ground has been covered in this book and the needs of the beginner were well thought out, especially in the Simplified Pattern Making chapter. The diagrams and instructions throughout the book are clear and simple, so that no matter how drastic the change in fashion or how ancient the fashion revival, the designers who have studied her methods can adapt the current fashion trends to their own needs and develop their own creative fashions.

Over 70 garments can be made using this book and even more using your own combinations with the foundation patterns.

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